Sewing and fabric glues are both extremely useful tools in a seamstress’ toolkit. But can they be used together? Is it possible to sew through fabric glue?
The short answer is yes, you can sew through fabric glue – but proceed with caution. Glue can gum up needles, damage fabric, and weaken seams if not used properly. With some adjustments to your tools and techniques, sewing through glue is possible, but not always recommended.
The Challenges of Sewing Through Fabric Glue
There are a few reasons why sewing directly through fabric glue can be tricky:
Needle Clogging
The biggest issue is that as the needle pierces the glue, it can pick up residue and become clogged. This causes skipped stitches, uneven seams, and frustration when sewing. If enough builds up, it can even damage the needle.
Thick, stiff glues tend to cause more clogging issues than thinner, more flexible glues. But any adhesive left on the fabric has potential to interfere with your needle and thread.
Fabric Damage
The needle dragging through glue can also damage delicate fabrics. Lightweight fabrics like silks and satins are prone to tearing or developing holes if the needle catches on dried glue. The glue can even cause puckering or distortion in the fabric.
Densely woven fabrics like canvas may hold up better, but the glue can still obstruct the needle, requiring more force to get through. This puts extra stress on the fabric and seams.
Reduced Seam Strength
Sewing through glue before it’s fully cured can weaken the bond between fabric pieces. This is especially concerning for load-bearing seams that need to stay intact under stress. The thread tension can cause the glue to lose adhering power.
Even once cured, the needle hole perforations can reduce glue effectiveness compared to a continuous, unbroken glue line. So sewing through glue risks compromising the strength and durability of the finished garment.
When Sewing Through Glue Works
While not ideal, there are times when sewing through fabric glue is your best or only option:
Temporary Bonding
For projects requiring alignment or fabric positioning before final sewing, a washable glue stick or spray adhesive can be helpful for keeping pieces in place temporarily. The key is using only a thin layer that will keep components stable while you sew, but not interfere with the needle.
Once sewn, a temporary glue will wash out, leaving the permanent seam intact. This is common for applique, patching, or quilting when precise placement is needed before sewing.
Reinforcement in Finished Seams
While it’s best to sew pieces together before gluing, adding adhesive inside finished seams can reinforce the bond. The stitches provide strength, while the glue seals and protects the allowance.
Just take care to let the glue fully cure before stressing the seam. And use a thin layer to avoid bulk and clogging if you need to sew over it again.
Hard-to-Sew Areas
For tricky spots like sewing velvet or repairing holes and tears, glue can provide extra stability as you sew. Minimal amounts in the direct needle path can keep layers from slipping and reduce damage to delicate fabrics.
Many sewers also rely on fabric glue for hemming jeans and other heavy fabrics where sewing can be challenging. A mix of stitching and glue distributes strain for a stronger hold.
Temporary Bonding Devices
Water-soluble tape or glue dots made specifically for sewing can create a temporary bond between fabric layers while you sew a seam. These are designed to dissolve completely once washed, without leaving residue that can gum up needles or reduce seam strength.
Tips for Sewing Through Fabric Glue Successfully
If you determine that sewing through glue is necessary for your project, here are some methods to improve the results:
Choose the Right Adhesive for Sewing
Not all glues are created equal when it comes to sewing compatibility. Here are some features to look for:
- Flexible hold after drying
- Does not become brittle or stiff
- Designed specifically for fabric and sewing
- Washable and soluble in water
- Non-toxic and free of solvents
Avoid hard, permanent glues like superglue or epoxy when sewing. Craft glues and school glues tend to be too stiff once dry and can damage fabric.
Use a Fine Application
The more glue you apply, the more potential for clogging, fabric damage, and reduced strength when sewing over it. When sewing through areas with glue, use the least amount needed to get the job done.
Lightly brush or sponge small dots of glue instead of using a heavy saturating application. Take extra care with fine or delicate materials.
Let Glue Dry Thoroughly
Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for drying time. Glue needs to fully set and bond to the fabric before sewing for best results. Sewing through wet glue almost guarantees a gummed up needle and weaker seam.
Give extra drying time if you applied multiple layers of glue or used a thicker glue variety. Test a scrap to see if the glue has hardened adequately and does not transfer when touched.
Use the Right Machine Needle
Choose the best needle for your fabric, then consider sizing up slightly and using a needle designed for slippery fabrics. The slightly larger hole can accommodate glue residue without clogging as easily.
Teflon coated needles are ideal for sewing through glue. The non-stick coating prevents buildup so the needle can glide smoothly. Stretch, denim, leather, and microtex needles also handle glue well.
Reduce Sewing Speed
Take it slow! Sewing too quickly increases friction against the glue, upping the chance of needle clogging, fabric damage, skipped stitches, or thread breaks. Maintain gentle control and advance the fabric carefully through glue sections.
Check Needle Frequently
Pause periodically to check the needle for any visible glue buildup. Wipe it clean with a soft cloth or use a needle cleaning brush to remove dried glue. This helps prevent skipping and uneven stitching.
You may need to rethread the needle if glue residue gets inside the eye. Having spare needles on hand allows quick swaps when required.
Use a Presser Foot that Glides Over Glue
A Teflon or non-stick presser foot will resist sticking to glue on the fabric surface. A roller foot or walking foot also helps feed fabric smoothly without catching on glue spots.
Attach the foot before sewing so you don’t have to stop mid-seam to change it. Raise the foot whenever pausing so it doesn’t stick to the glue.
Don’t Backstitch
If you need to pivot or overlap a seam, avoid backstitching since this doubles the needle contact through the glued area. Instead, stitch off the edge of the fabric and cut the threads to secure. Then start fresh from the new position.
Clean Up Glue Residue
After completing glue seams, carefully wipe away any visible dried glue residue from fabric surfaces. Use a soft wet cloth or stiff brush to avoid damaging the weave or pile of the material.
This helps prevent gumming up the needle if you need to sew over that area again later. It also improves the feel and drape of the finished piece.
Alternatives to Sewing Through Glue
If your test sew shows that your fabric and glue don’t play nicely together, consider these other options:
Glue Temporary Holds, Sew Permanent Seams
Rather than sewing through glue, use pins, clips, or basting stitches to align and position fabric pieces initially. Once aligned, remove the temporary holds and sew your permanent seam.
After stitching the seam, you can apply a thin layer of glue inside if you want to reinforce the bond. Just make sure the glue has fully cured before wearing or washing the finished garment.
Choose a Stronger Seam Type
Some seams like French seams encase the raw edges for a clean finish and extra strength. Flat felled seams have internal folds that distribute stress over a wider area. Using these specialized techniques can remove the need for glue.
Or opt for wider seam allowances, double-stitching, or stronger thread like polyester for a sturdier seam. Add reinforcement patches at points prone to strain like crotch seams.
Consider Fusible Interfacing
If you need to glue layers together, fusible interfacing may offer more sewing versatility. Once fused, it creates a stable bond that secures fabric but allows needles to pass through freely without catching or clogging.
Fusible web tape also adheres fabric while still permitting stitching. These products provide glue’s bonding power without the hassle of sewing through globs of adhesive.
When Necessary, Apply Glue After Sewing
Where possible, sew main seams first before adding any glue. Then apply adhesive strategically only where needed for reinforcement. This might mean just small dots of glue at seam intersections or vulnerable points.
Let the glue cure fully. This allows the stitching to take the main structural loads while the glue provides supplemental stability as needed.
Key Takeaways for Sewing Through Fabric Glue
Gluing fabric then sewing through adhesive is possible but poses some challenges. Here are the main tips to remember:
- Test on scraps first to see how your materials respond.
- Minimize glue usage in the actual sewing path.
- Allow adequate curing time so glue is dry before sewing.
- Select the right needle type and size for piercing glue.
- Reduce sewing speed to prevent needle clogging.
- Clean the needle frequently when sewing through glue.
- Apply glue strategically after sewing for targeted reinforcement.
With care and practice, glue and stitches can work together to create professional, long-lasting seams in all types of fabrics. Approach sewing through glue as an advanced technique requiring precision and patience for best results.